snorkel surfing

If a wave hits a vertical surface it doesn't move back and forth, it just moves up and down. And if it hits a surface that is not completely vertical it doesn't move much. It's an interesting place to swim, the place where by some combination of wave size, angle of the shore etc. you can essentially swim right into what "looks" completely unswimmable. I spend hours doing that, approach it all "very" slowly, get a read on the bottom contours, currents, how the waves "act" and then slide in. I'm what you'd call "relaxed" in the water I guess. Of course there is the danger of being smashed on the rocks and then dragged back across them in a big wash of angry water. Perhaps left with your head bashed open, floating around unconscious, head bleeding like a harpooned seal. Decidedly unpleasant, but that's the game, how close can you get?